Basel, Switzerland

Basel is like the entry gate to Switzerland coming from France or Germany. Both the airport and Basel SBB station are partly used by both neighbouring countries. The tripoint position makes for an interesting linguistic and cultural mix. Most residents speak the regional dialect Basel German or a form of German and French (the Swiss German word for “bicycle”, for example, is the French “velo”). I have always found cities in which as many different people and influences as possible come together most fascinating. Is there anything more intriguing than diving into the relationship between such a city and its inhabitants? Does the place shape the people, or is it the other way around?

This story begins with me sitting in my kitchen “home office” working away on a Thursday in June. I suddenly had the feeling that I needed something special to look forward to for the long weekend. Monday would be a national holiday. I wanted to discover something new, get out of the city, but not too far away as I could only flee for two or three nights. Cue the brainstorming and train research: Paris? – too expensive for a spontaneous stay and all trains fully booked, Brussels? – almost more difficult and expensive than Paris in terms of trains, Amsterdam? – I had been there before and it had to be something new. As it turned out, finding a city within a radius of 2-3 hours by train that I didn’t know already was not easy. But then, the idea of Basel came to me. I didn’t know much about the city except that you can find good snacks in the station’s supermarket when changing trains there. The train journey starting in Frankfurt takes about 3 hours. I booked the journey there for Saturday, the return journey for Monday and chose the first reasonably priced hotel I found through a short search.

The Breakfast Spot

On Saturday morning, I grabbed my weekender bag, a coffee and got on the train to Basel. Easy peasy, I arrived just in time for a late breakfast. As I stepped out of Basel SBB, it was pouring with rain and I decided to look for a café nearby. I remembered the proximity to Germany as I saw that many cafés were closed for the weekend. However, I spotted unternehmen mitte on the map and gave it a go. UM is a bar/café/event space in the city centre located in an old bank building. I loved this place in terms of architecture and atmosphere. The prices for food and drinks are rather high. Having gotten to know Switzerland a bit better over the past two years and coming from Germany, I still have a hard time separating Swiss pricing from simply too high prices. Still, I had breakfast there twice as I deemed the use of regional ingredients worth it and enjoyed sitting in the big hall like space while doing some people watching. I you get the chance, try the pancakes or the eggs with sourdough bread.

Pancakes at unternehmen mitte – Brunch is served exclusively on weekends and holidays

The Hotel

By chance, I had booked a room in one of the most traditional hotels in Basel and – as it turned out – one of the nicest hotels I have stayed in. Hotel Krafft is located on the banks of the Rhine. The old town is just a walk over a bridge away, making it the perfect accommodation from where to explore the city. Depending on the season, you can book rooms for extremely good prices (tipp: have a look at fair dates before deciding when to come). I stayed in a single room that immediately felt cozy to me. It was small, but had everything you need, including a small bathroom with a nice shower. Every floor has a common area by the staircase with couches, books and a small kitchenette providing you with water, tea, fruit and sweets. Herman Hesse wrote some parts of his book Steppenwolf in one of the rooms. Apparently, Basel was one of the writer’s favorite places, where he found quiet as well as inspiration. Upon entering the hotel lobby, I can understand why. Interior design elements in muted colors and blue reflect the Swiss closeness to nature as well as the Rhine being the heart of the city. The people of Basel love their river. One of the few things I learned about the city before staying there was that people bring their swimsuits to work in the summer and jump in the river as soon as they get out of the office. There are many shallow spots where you can let yourself float along.

Lounge, Boutique Hotel Krafft

The Place for Street Food and a Beer

Basel has many good restaurant options, but don’t expect making a bargain eating out. One evening, I had a hearty Swiss dinner (Rösti) at Gifthüttli, which is reasonably priced and in the city centre. If like me, you typically look for more low key places with street food, I highly recommend checking out Klara, a meeting point, bar and food hall with nine different kitchens. The falafel pita from YOYA, one of the food stands, was divine (ok – maybe I was just extremely hungry after a long day of walking, but I remember the bread being THE softest). The weather got nicer soon after my arrival and many people treated themselves to drinks and a meal outside on Clarastraße, which was bustling with life that evening. If you fancy a dessert, I recommend ice cream from enila, where you can find dreamy flavours such as Mocha Almond Fudge.

The Museums

My main activity during this trip, besides strolling, eating and writing postcards, were museum visits as Basel is known for its vibrant art scene. I visited the Kunstmuseum (you could spend an entire day here alone) and did a little trip with the tram to Fondation Beyeler in Riehen. As a tourist, you can get a BaselCard, which provides you with free public transport and discounts on the entrance fees for many museum. Both museums are impressive considering their collections and architecture. Even if you are not into contemporary art, the short ride to Riehen is worth it. The small village is perfect for a calm walk in the surrounding fields and a coffee at verde limón, a small cafébar that serves authentic Mexican food with a side of smiles from the friendly owner.

I absolutely enjoyed my long weekend in Basel. It was a combination of the ideal accommodation, new impressions and many kind people. Like many places in Switzerland, I found that Basel is also a good destination as a female solo traveler. Some place make it hard to be comfortable on your own, Basel is not one of them. On my last day, I had coffee and a snack at Café frühling, which is located in a more residential and calm area. After that, I did a quick final walk to the cathedral with the Bischofshof and its beautiful courtyard overlooking the other side of the Rhine. Before catching my train back home, I sat by the river and watched a few people float by. Life felt easy. Maybe I am biased as a person born in a Rhine city, but like many of them, Basel also has a special atmosphere to it. I imagine it quite easy feeling at home here surrounded by half-timbered houses, art galleries and a charming jumble of languages. I’m sure I will return soon.