Spa, Belgium
If you’re into good food, you have probably been to Belgium, or at least dreamt about going. It is a foodie haven: this is the country where trapist beer meets fried food. I could not find exact numbers, however Belgium is considered to be the deep frying capital of Europe. Besides its culinary delights, there is much more to discover – history, art and stunning landscapes. Belgium is also well suited for train travel through the country. Next stop: Wallonia.
The destination for this weekend trip is Spa. The small town is located in a valley in the Ardennes, was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 2021 and can be viewed as the origin of The Great Spa Towns of Europe. The term “spa” originated here due to the healing qualities of its natural water sources. The sick and health-conscious have traveled to Spa for centuries in order to find pain relief in the nutrient-rich mineral water.
The Journey
We start in Aachen, Germany. From here, a train takes us directly to Spa station. However, this direct connection from Germany does not exist anymore and to get to Spa now, you have to change trains in Verviers-Central. The leg of the route between Verviers and Spa runs through the Ardennes – think dense forests stretching across steep hills and narrow valleys with small rivers winding alongside the railway tracks. I highly recommend taking one of the few hourly trains going to Spa instead of the bus. The journey is much more enjoyable and you truly get the most out of the landscape views. As a plus, the station of Spa gives you a charming first impression of the town.
The Accommodation
As one of Europe’s traditional spa cities, Spa offers a variety of hotels as well as little owner-run B&B’s. Most hotels are located in the centre of town, whilst you can find smaller accommodations on the outskirts. Not only are the bed & breakfasts often in beautiful victorian villas and more quiet, they also give you easy access to the forest for hikes. We chose L'Étape Fagnarde Bed & Breakfast for our stay. The renovated 19th-century villa lies in short walking distance from the train station and offers a small number of beautifully decorated rooms, a cozy salon and even a sauna. A rich breakfast buffet is served in the cozy breakfast room facing the large backyard garden. Occasionally, you get to meet the B&B’s cat Beertje looking for snuggles.
Things to do
Spa is the ideal place for a getaway if you are looking for a few days of peace and quiet outside of tourist seasons. The town can be more frequented by tourists for Formula 1 races on the racing track near the town or during the Francofolies music festival in July. Aside from this, it is worth exploring the town’s history as the former “Café of Europe”. Since the 18th century, nobility and celebrities alike have come here for health treatments and socializing. The mineral water from the sources is locally bottled and can be found in many Belgian supermarkets, it is also exported worldwide.
The tourist centre provides information on the history and activities. It is situated in the same building as le Pouhon (“source” in Walloon dialect) de Pierre-le-Grand, Spa’s most famous source. The treatments in Spa are centered around the water from the numerous sources – you drink it or you can bathe in it. On top of a hill overlooking the valley lie the Thermes de Spa. You can either hike up there or use the funicular going up the hill from Place Royale. A visit to the thermal bath is highly recommended.
Let's talk food: You can stumble straight out of the train station into Friterie au Lutin Gourmand serving frites, croquettes and more fried goodness. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, you should try the pastries at Le Fournil de Molly and Maison Demartin for tea and cakes. For dinner, both Franc’Off des Artistes and Ma Maison D’être offer Belgian beers and regional dishes and are located centrally. A supermarket can be found across the street. Unfortunately, the restaurant L’Alchimie on Rue du Dr Henri Schaltin seems to have closed according to my research. We had a memorable dinner there, the food, atmosphere and hosts were great.
For a day trip, the region offers beautiful hiking trails through the forests. If you are more into city breaks, you might enjoy a day trip to Liège. The train journey between Liège and Spa via Verviers takes about an hour and there you can visit La Boverie, a lovely park with an art museum, alongside many more sights. Traveling Belgium by train was much fun and I would highly recommend visiting the country’s east and the Ardennes region.
