Glücksburg, Germany
Do you know that feeling when you just need a break – from work and your familiar surroundings?
Trying to reconstruct how I found out about the tiny village of Glücksburg in northern Germany is not easy. To begin with, I am always intrigued by the idea of going to a coastal area. I remember researching small hotels and bed and breakfasts that would be easy to travel to by train, but still far enough away from home.
I must have come across the hotel Smucke Steed on a blog or on a random boutique hotel website. Please don’t be put off by the word “boutique” here. If you are like me, you probably like more simple, modest and off the beaten track places. I saw photos of Smucke Steed online and fell in love with the historic charm of the brick building, its Baltic Sea view and the fact that there was an outdoor sauna in the garden. The name of the village that I had never heard about before was just the cherry on top (“Glücksburg” can be translated as “Castle of Luck”). So I booked a room and a train ticket.
Before my trip to Glücksburg, I had been on a few short solo city trips. The thought of spending a week all by myself did make me a bit nervous. I had no idea how it would go, but I was confident that I needed time for myself and a change of scenery after months of intense work for an art gallery.
The Journey
My trip to up north started early in the morning in Frankfurt am Main, from where I took a train to Hamburg main station (ca. 3.5 h). After picking up a Franzbrötchen at Franz & Friends for breakfast – arguably one of the best in Hamburg – I boarded a regional train to Flensburg (ca. 2 h). I could write a whole separate story about the train station in Flensburg. Picture arriving in a strange city on a grim and grey October day and finding yourself in a well preserved 1927 building in an old waiting hall with high ceilings and patterned floors. It is picturesque, to say the least. The station is also the main connecting point for train travelers between Europe and Scandinavia. To get to Glücksburg by public transport, I took a bus from Flensburg station (ca. 30 min).
The Hotel
Aarskogs Boutique Hotel in Glücksburg, Germany
I got off the bus in Glücksburg at the station “Kurpark/Strand” in order to have a little wander through the place I would be in for the upcoming days. I was a short walk to the hotel and I by the time I arrived, I already knew that I would have a hard time leaving here by the end of my stay. To deliver the bad news at the beginning: Unfortunately, the hotel Smucke Steed closed in early 2024. However, the building’s owners decided to take over the hotel. I took a look at the website of the Aarskogs Boutique Hotel (remember what I said about the word “boutique”) and the interiors seem to be just the same as they were before the hotel was renamed and reopened. In short, nothing has changed and the prices for the rooms are absolutely fair.
For my trip, I had booked a double bed room as there were no single rooms available for my travel period. I ended up using the extra bed as a sofa for movie nights in – no complaints here. All of the rooms I have seem would be an absolute delight to stay in. The rest of the house makes you feel at home from the minute you step inside. There are cosy corners with armchairs and books to sink into. There is the breakfast room – probably my favorite room in the house – with colorfully patterned floor tiles and a gorgeous view opening up across the back patio towards the sea framed by greenery, the coastline of Denmark in the far distance. The hotel offers its guests a balanced breakfast buffet with regional and healthy products. On most mornings, I stayed in the breakfast room with my book and coffee and just enjoyed the view. In all honesty: Writing this text, I still feel extremely thankful for these moment of pure calm and groundedness.
Although I did not get much use of the patio as I was there in drizzly October, the grounds surrounding the house are beautifully maintained. The free standing garden sauna can be used for a small fee. I remember sitting in my own sweat one evening after a long hiking day with the view of the landscape and woods during a breathtaking sunset. Next to the sauna is a relaxation space with loungers.
Things to do
As my main aim was to relax and have no itinerary for this trip, Smucke Steed was the perfect hotel to stay at. I opted for activities in the afternoon and spent most nights with a cup of tea in my room reading or watching a film. Since the hotel did not offer full accommodation, I had lunch and dinner in the village or in the neighboring Sandwig. The centre of Glücksburg can be reached with a 15 minute walk. There, you will find a supermarket, a pharmacy, a bakery as well as a few little stores, restaurants and cafés. I recommend visiting the historic moated castle. You can book a guided tour or use an audioguide to get to know the history of the area. I was surprised to learn about the deep connection with Denmark and Danish culture. There are many Danish schools in the area and people tend to speak Danish or have family and friends living across the closeby border. After visiting the castle, I had a very good slice of cake at the charming café.
I visited Glücksburg during autumn, outside of the tourist season. Therefore my recommendations are not for your typical summer beach holiday, which you could definitely spend here. I went on many walks along the beach (my umbrella kept me good company) and took the ferry to Flensburg a few times. Ferries cross regularly between Glücksburg and Flensburg during the day. Flensburg is a sweet little city with an impressive harbour and colorful half-timbered houses reminiscent of those in Kopenhagen. I strolled down Norderstraße and stopped at lille Lykke for coffee. You can also find Danish bakeries and interior stores in the same street. A trip to Flensburg offers museums and many more activities (I imagine for families with kids, too). If you are looking for a holiday for the soul to restore energy and find calm, Glücksburg is your place to go.